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Thread: A4 1.8T 160 000km Service

  1. Default A4 1.8T 160 000km Service

    Hi guys. So as i was flicking thru my log book service book. It occurs to me pages run out at like say 150 000km

    One of my b6s is at 160 000ks.. so when u say log book servicing.. what are the key components to look for when servicing a sort of high kilometred car?

    I know how to check the basics of servicing a car.. like fluids.. fiddling around with the hoses.. checks for leaks and cracks and all that.. what i really mean is what happens at 160 000km servicing..

    Can anyone provide a detailed list of what to check.. timing belt was done at 130 000km..

    Ive got my own ross tech vcds. So scanning for cels and sorting out whats failed isnt a problem

    What i wana know is.. what needs to be checked and replaced at 160 000ks

    Thanks for your expertiseeee input.. highly obliged

    The google search button merely provide any satisfactory results..

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  2. Default

    Really 1 wk and nothing?

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  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MRCT View Post
    Hi guys. So as i was flicking thru my log book service book. It occurs to me pages run out at like say 150 000km

    One of my b6s is at 160 000ks.. so when u say log book servicing.. what are the key components to look for when servicing a sort of high kilometred car?

    I know how to check the basics of servicing a car.. like fluids.. fiddling around with the hoses.. checks for leaks and cracks and all that.. what i really mean is what happens at 160 000km servicing..

    Can anyone provide a detailed list of what to check.. timing belt was done at 130 000km..

    Ive got my own ross tech vcds. So scanning for cels and sorting out whats failed isnt a problem

    What i wana know is.. what needs to be checked and replaced at 160 000ks

    Thanks for your expertiseeee input.. highly obliged

    The google search button merely provide any satisfactory results..

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    I couldn't attached a service schedule from Audi, too large. Note that different countries recommend different intervals for the same car so some things may not align with the Australian book. The process is based on repeated cycles so you can make your own maintenance regime out to 400,000 Km or beyond and it will still apply. Some things are distance based and an example is the accessory belt tensioner on the 2.7 which is due to be changed every 115,000 Km. Maintenance is erroneously measured in distance driven whereas it should be in hours run or a combination depending on the item. You need to know this yourself to home in on where the issues may lie as the car gets older.

    On to your question. At 160,000 Km, the car could be 4 or 20 years old. The older the car, the more careful the checks need to be. In essence you really need to pay attention to all "rubber based components" from brake lines to radiator hoses, mounts and bushes etc. Fluid filled mounts start to leak, bushes crack and so on. Fluids should be looked at more carefully. Things like brake fluid slips between the cracks. Spark plugs, long life plugs have two evils, people forget them or pass them over as they take too long to change and also, plugs that have been in for 100,000 Km can weld to the thread and you can stuff a head in removing them. If your engine is clean, no oil leaks then you have less to look at. If you have leaks then anything electrical in the path of the leak can become defective. Obviously it attracts all the dirt and crud and can earth out some systems.

    Drive shafts need careful checking. The Cv boots are usually good for a long period but eventually...... Older cars with intact boots may have deterioration and cracking meaning an imminent failure. I'm just changing out the front driveshafts on the allroad because of that. Cheaper than replacing the CV joints. You could just replace the boots but taking a chance that the CV joint won't fail shortly after and having to do the job again.

    Thats probably enough to start you.
    B5 RS4 : Lightly modified -- C5 2.7 allroad -- B5 A4 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

  4. Default

    Hey ichbaut.. your definitely right abt all the rubberise parts on the car.. my is 10 yrs old now.. ive had a detailed look over the car every weekend as i got nothing else better to do other than changing bottle feeding and changing diapers to my newborn.. lol. But recently wen i turn left or right from stop position the left is clicking and wen i go over a bump the right wheel clicks as if its metal hitting metal.. i have cv boot kit on order and i plan to change all inner and outter on both sides and all the mounts are on order aswell.. the cost is slowly adding up i feel i have to spend abt 3000 dollars to get the car up to par again. 034 msport Engine and snub mounts.. cv boots.. as the cv axle ive been told is unbreakable so til it fails completely ill look into it further.. came factory with sport suspension.. ive come to wonder if its possible to disassemble to clean and re oil the shocks.. wouldnt that make it like new again?

    Say you had a 2k budget.. what would done?

    I know the cars waterpump and belt was done about 20 000km ago.. Alternator was replaced only few months ago.. also what does it mean if there were small oil tracks in the intake manifold? Is that suppose to be or is the turbo got leaks? I know the turbo hasnt been touched yet.. as i find no record of it... good new is im the 3rd owner so the car hasnt been around the bush and has had a service history.. any feedback would be nice

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRCT View Post
    Hey ichbaut.. your definitely right abt all the rubberise parts on the car.. my is 10 yrs old now.. ive had a detailed look over the car every weekend as i got nothing else better to do other than changing bottle feeding and changing diapers to my newborn.. lol. But recently wen i turn left or right from stop position the left is clicking and wen i go over a bump the right wheel clicks as if its metal hitting metal.. i have cv boot kit on order and i plan to change all inner and outter on both sides and all the mounts are on order aswell.. the cost is slowly adding up i feel i have to spend abt 3000 dollars to get the car up to par again. 034 msport Engine and snub mounts.. cv boots.. as the cv axle ive been told is unbreakable so til it fails completely ill look into it further.. came factory with sport suspension.. ive come to wonder if its possible to disassemble to clean and re oil the shocks.. wouldnt that make it like new again?

    Say you had a 2k budget.. what would done?

    I know the cars waterpump and belt was done about 20 000km ago.. Alternator was replaced only few months ago.. also what does it mean if there were small oil tracks in the intake manifold? Is that suppose to be or is the turbo got leaks? I know the turbo hasnt been touched yet.. as i find no record of it... good new is im the 3rd owner so the car hasnt been around the bush and has had a service history.. any feedback would be nice

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    The bad news is that it sounds like the actual outer CV joints are gone if you are getting clicking on lock. The new boots won't fix it unfortunately. The inner Cv joints rarely fail. I haven't confirmed this for your car but the bolts securing the inner CV to the gearbox flange are a "use once" style on mine. If you do remove the drive shafts you'll probably need a new set of 12 bolts to replace them. It can be much cheaper to buy a complete replacement drive shaft than to buy just new CV joints. There is also a special tool that helps in removing the CV joint from the drive shaft. Starts to add up to DIY.

    Regarding the oil tracks, depends on where they are. They may be splatter from a rotating leak or drips from a leaking union or the PCV system. Just look at them and work out how they might have got there and you'll probably find the cause.

    The dampers are a sealed unit. A specialist could open them up but it would cost more than a new set is worth. The factory design is to be non rebuild-able.

    Impossible to advise without seeing the car. Obviously money and reliability are important to you so things like drive shafts and brakes are important. Give the engine a good clean and see where the possible problems start to emerge. Do a complete fault check with VCDS and see what the computer tells you. Problem is that a fault can have many causes so half a dozen fault codes can lead to weeks of elimination. Listen for noises and note anything that just may not be right. Everything has a cause and you'll have to deal with them all at some time.
    B5 RS4 : Lightly modified -- C5 2.7 allroad -- B5 A4 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

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