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Thread: RS4 B7 Clunking between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by demon8991 View Post
    Thanks for your help greatly appreciated however it is fair to say forums are a great place to share information and ask questions.

    Clutch in or clutch out make no difference when the car is off they more or less sounds the same.



    I did a check and couldn't see any history of the gearbox oil and I rang the last place to service and they said they didn't do it in the last 18 months.

    With regards to oil and treatment I was looking at the following would I be right in using these two products?

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...250g/2129.html

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...4Y9fl7kw%3D%3D

    Prestige and Performance look great however do you know anything a little closer as I am at the southern end of the Gold Coast.
    I would go this
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F162318341939

    OEM, Motul Or Redline as mentioned.

    I sure I went Liqui Moly last time. Certainly made a difference to shifting specially when cold & trying to change gears.

    Has the clutch being done?
    Does it slip at all?
    Does the clutch pedal get stuck on return half way back from the floor? Especially when doing a change at higher RPM.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. Default

    Thanks for all the feedback really appreciate the help.

    I just spoke with Mike at Prestige and Performance and explained everything that I have said here and he said he would start with a Gearbox Oil change especially as it hasn't been done in the last four years at the very least.

    When I asked what oil would he use he said Penrite Pro Gear Oil which is the one i listed on here. What exactly is wrong with this oil and why wouldn't you use it?

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...4Y9fl7kw%3D%3D
    RS4 B7 Phantom Black Centre Resonator Delete

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by demon8991 View Post
    Thanks for all the feedback really appreciate the help.

    I just spoke with Mike at Prestige and Performance and explained everything that I have said here and he said he would start with a Gearbox Oil change especially as it hasn't been done in the last four years at the very least.

    When I asked what oil would he use he said Penrite Pro Gear Oil which is the one i listed on here. What exactly is wrong with this oil and why wouldn't you use it?

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...4Y9fl7kw%3D%3D
    This is my position, no one elses. There have been many oils tried in the Audi gearbox, some oils with big names and bragging rights. The end result has varied between satisfaction and unsatisfied, for various reasons. Around the world, forums discuss issues inc gearbox problems. A good many well qualified / informed owners ended up reverting to the factory gearbox oil. This reversion was less evident where the oils used listed the VW approval for this gearbox. The opinion that seems to be widely held is that as a minimum, use gearbox oil that has the VW approval. No one seems to have regretted going back to the factory oil, despite the cost. They aren't the cheapest gearbox so in my view, anything to prolong the life is worthwhile.

    You're perfectly entitled to choose whatever oil you wish, or indeed what your chosen mechanic recommends. I chose Motul, meets the factory specs. Cheap, not. I haven't had any issues though. There is weeks of reading if you wish to get informed or place it in the hands of your mechanic.

    In short, I couldn't say there was anything wrong with that Penrite oil, equally I couldn't say if it meets the factory spec either. See above for why I wouldn't use it.

    WRT your fault, we're relying on your description to assist with diagnosis. Pretty foolish position as it is, so the fact that you've gone to a mechanic is good news. The reason that I wouldn't just jump in and change the oil up front is that using a quality oil, it's expensive without knowing what the issue is. About the only thing that the oil condition will do under low load running is impact on synchro operation marginally. Seeing as I'm paying my own bills, I tend to be as diligent as possible in assessing the problem before throwing money at it.
    B5 RS4 : Lightly modified -- C5 2.7 allroad -- B5 A4 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

  4. #24

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    I agree with the majority of what IchBautAuto has said above.

    I do however think that you should change the gearbox and diff oil at this juncture though. You’ve got nothing to lose by doing so (assuming you use a decent oil, a few hundred dollars plus some labour) - and given the age and KMs on the car it is just good preventative maintenance anyway. It also rules one potential thing out if you continue to have gearbox related concerns.

  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IchBautAuto View Post
    This is my position, no one elses. There have been many oils tried in the Audi gearbox, some oils with big names and bragging rights. The end result has varied between satisfaction and unsatisfied, for various reasons. Around the world, forums discuss issues inc gearbox problems. A good many well qualified / informed owners ended up reverting to the factory gearbox oil. This reversion was less evident where the oils used listed the VW approval for this gearbox. The opinion that seems to be widely held is that as a minimum, use gearbox oil that has the VW approval. No one seems to have regretted going back to the factory oil, despite the cost. They aren't the cheapest gearbox so in my view, anything to prolong the life is worthwhile.

    You're perfectly entitled to choose whatever oil you wish, or indeed what your chosen mechanic recommends. I chose Motul, meets the factory specs. Cheap, not. I haven't had any issues though. There is weeks of reading if you wish to get informed or place it in the hands of your mechanic.

    In short, I couldn't say there was anything wrong with that Penrite oil, equally I couldn't say if it meets the factory spec either. See above for why I wouldn't use it.

    WRT your fault, we're relying on your description to assist with diagnosis. Pretty foolish position as it is, so the fact that you've gone to a mechanic is good news. The reason that I wouldn't just jump in and change the oil up front is that using a quality oil, it's expensive without knowing what the issue is. About the only thing that the oil condition will do under low load running is impact on synchro operation marginally. Seeing as I'm paying my own bills, I tend to be as diligent as possible in assessing the problem before throwing money at it.
    Thanks, however really not sure why you keep having a go at me to be honest, I am not foolish in the slightest. I am just trying to learn. I will not make a decision before I have consulted forums and spoken with mechanics so please give me a little credit.

    With regards to Penrite (again not saying I will use this) have you considered that this is an Australian Oil and few RS4s were sold here compared to Europe which is where most of the information is so of course there are very few documented cases of it being used on the internet. European/American oils are what are commonly used because there were more sales there.

    If I had taken it to the mechanic (suggested on this forum) the first thing he said he would have done was change the gearbox oil, he said he would use the exact oil I have listed and I would have been none the wiser. He said he uses it in all European performance cars and race cars.

    You talk about cost also, at the end of the day I own an RS4 I know there will be costs associated with it, going to mechanic isn't cheap either often $100+ an hour so before I did that it is SENSIBLE to write a FREE thread on a forum asking for advice.
    Last edited by demon8991; January 11th, 2019 at 10:05 AM.
    RS4 B7 Phantom Black Centre Resonator Delete

  6. #26
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    I agree demon8991, not sure why IchBautAuto wrote 'Pretty foolish position as it is', maybe just bad wording..

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    When i had my old R32gtr, i also had third gear crunch.
    My old tuner recommended me to put Redline shock proof in and believe it or not, that fixed it. While the 32r is no B7 rs4 hitech, it was pumping out more power, cope a heap of abusive driving, been on many tracks, Philip Isalnd, Winton, Sandown ... you name it and also many drag races, we're talking about 7-8000rpm launches frequently.

    What i'm trying to say is sometime, good OIL will fix those gear crunches issue.
    2000 Avant A4 B5 Turbo Quattro - Powered by QMS E85 K04

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by demon8991 View Post
    Thanks, however really not sure why you keep having a go at me to be honest, I am not foolish in the slightest. I am just trying to learn. I will not make a decision before I have consulted forums and spoken with mechanics so please give me a little credit.

    With regards to Penrite (again not saying I will use this) have you considered that this is an Australian Oil and few RS4s were sold here compared to Europe which is where most of the information is so of course there are very few documented cases of it being used on the internet. European/American oils are what are commonly used because there were more sales there.

    If I had taken it to the mechanic (suggested on this forum) the first thing he said he would have done was change the gearbox oil, he said he would use the exact oil I have listed which I would have been none the wiser. He said he uses it in all European performance cars and race cars.

    You talk about cost also, at the end of the day I own an RS4 I know there will be costs associated with it, going to mechanic isn't cheap either often $100+ an hour so before I did that it is SENSIBLE to write a FREE thread on a forum asking for advice.
    OK, I'm not having a go at you, at least not to my mind. Audi designed and specced the car and it isn't within my purview to say why that Penrite is or isn't appropriate. What I've tried to do is say that the whole gearbox oil saga spreads over several series, the B5 has the same issues. The various machinations are contained within hours if not weeks of reading across forums in the UK, US and Europe. The contributors range from people not unlike your self and indeed my self trying to put the whole issue in perspective. More importantly amongst the participants they also have contributors who are qualified, knowledgeable and impartial. I consider myself lucky in that as an engineer I can largely weed out the uninformed contributions and look at those that are supported by evidence. I never made fluid dynamics or transmissions a specialty but I guess I have a little understanding. I certainly learnt quite a bit from the experiences of others and I can say that there is no one specific answer, whether it is oil brands or causes. What has appeared consistently is that oils that don't meet the VW spec are more likely to perform below par, therefore the preference for VW spec. Amongst the knowledgeable people that are not in business selling a specific brand, the OE oil gets a good wrap.

    I talk about cost, from experience. A B5 RS4 circa $40,000 when I bought 5 odd years ago. Then another $40,000 invested in parts, so call me when you get to that stage. I think I qualify to mention it. You've capitalized "FREE", assuming that is an emphasis. Lesson in life, you get what you pay for. I think that you're doing well actually. The info you've received from all is pretty good, given freely and some time and effort has gone into typing it in. All for nothing other than people attempting to provide the help that you seek.

    To end, I'm not bagging penrite nor am I someone who needs to put a sticker on my car saying I use XXXX oil. I buy based on fit for purpose. In the days pre Forums I tried and used many oils, some good, some not so. Now I get a helping hand in evaluating the oil via Forums, amongst other sources. It just happens that Audi seem to be one of the more difficult brands to get the best performance from some oils. Re Aus oils for Aus, not really an issue. 99% of RS models are in suburbia, largely law abiding with little time over 110 KPH and not so many out in 40+ degree heat. The RS category gearboxes in Germany get a far harder workout, It's been 40 there too on occasions (personal experience) and the hot cars in the LH lane at 200+ KPH are in another class altogether.

    Wish you luck with your problem. Whatever solution you choose, hope it works for you.
    B5 RS4 : Lightly modified -- C5 2.7 allroad -- B5 A4 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnrdavo View Post
    I agree demon8991, not sure why IchBautAuto wrote 'Pretty foolish position as it is', maybe just bad wording..
    It was written as foolish for me (and others too) to attempt to provide a diagnosis from a vague description on a forum. If it wasn't clear, it should be now. I meant exactly what I said but it wasn't directed at demon8991, it was what should have been obvious from the start.
    B5 RS4 : Lightly modified -- C5 2.7 allroad -- B5 A4 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by IchBautAuto View Post
    It was written as foolish for me (and others too) to attempt to provide a diagnosis from a vague description on a forum. If it wasn't clear, it should be now. I meant exactly what I said but it wasn't directed at demon8991, it was what should have been obvious from the start.
    yes, and with that, I agree

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