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Thread: RS4 B7 Clunking between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd

  1. Default RS4 B7 Clunking between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd

    Hi All,

    As a new owner I am still getting used to the car and how it drives.

    I noticed there is a slight clunk occasionally between 1st and 2nd gear and then between 2nd and third. This happens when the car is warm so I can't put it down to being cold.

    You can feel it and also hear it, passenger confirms the sound too.

    Is this normal?
    Last edited by demon8991; January 6th, 2019 at 05:10 PM.
    RS4 B7 Phantom Black Centre Resonator Delete

  2. Default

    How many kms on the car? Might need some renewal in the drive line.

  3. Default

    130,000 km roughly.

    It doesnt do it every change and I am still experimenting with it to find out when it does it (RPMs etc.)

    Could a gear box and diff oil change help?
    RS4 B7 Phantom Black Centre Resonator Delete

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by demon8991 View Post
    Hi All,

    As a new owner I am still getting used to the car and how it drives.

    I noticed there is a slight clunk occasionally between 1st and 2nd gear and then between 2nd and third. This happens when the car is warm so I can't put it down to being cold.

    You can feel it and also hear it, passenger confirms the sound too.

    Is this normal?
    No, not normal.

    How many KMs on car?

    Is it happening when your changing gear under a lot of load. i.e. High RPM. Does it happen at low RPM?

    Can you reproduce without changing gear. Usually holding 1st or 2nd to about 7k RPM then getting straight off the throttle should reproduce a drive train knock.

    Have the engine mounts being changed? My right side needed changing around 80Kms.

    Have you checked rear diff mount? They tend to go as well. Check this thread, still has some pics in it. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...erential-Mount

    Rear diff mount is the easiest and cheapest to start with. Most go for something like this, https://apikol.com/product/audi-rear-diff-mount-b6-b7/ the Red unit is recommended for RS cars. It is alot cheaper with shipping from JHM https://jhmotorsports.com/rear-diff-...6-chassis.html

    OEM Engine Mounts are here https://jhmotorsports.com/products/t...nd-b7-rs4.html or you can fit these - https://jhmotorsports.com/products/t...nd-b7-rs4.html

    Otherwise, wait till it gets louder and go from there.

    Good Luck, if you need more info, Ask..

  5. #5

    Default

    Don't own a B7 so this is engineering advice rather than owner experience. Everything that you have been advised so far is good advice, and unless you apply some serious fault finding, you could be chasing this for a while. Bottom line is the drive train has a larger than normal number of flexible drive components (CV joints etc) that wear, plus the earlier mentioned machinery mounts front to back. Say 1/4 degree wear in 11 CV joints plus gearbox and diff backlash is a certain source of clunks. Going on / off throttle in gear will hopefully replicate the noise but won't pinpoint it for sure. Another thing to consider is if you are a tad less than smooth with gear changes. Some can drive a manual like it was an auto and some, you can't but help feel every change.

    My recommendation, get it on a hoist and visually inspect every mount. No leaks from any fluid filled or visible torn rubber or noticeable distortion or off center location. Finally, CV Boots for tears or leaks. If everything there is visually OK then it is more likely than not to be an accumulation of wear which is almost impossible to resolve without a serious investment for an older car.
    B5 RS4 : Lightly modified -- C5 2.7 allroad -- B5 A4 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

  6. Default

    Thanks so much for the help and advice really appreciate it.

    Haven't noticed it under heavy load, it was doing it as I was driving back at about 50 kph today. Will drive tomorrow and check for heavy load knocking and without changing gear.

    When I had the 300 point check done when I purchased it I think the mechanic mentioned that the engine mount warning flashed up and went away (correct me if I am wrong on this).

    If I check the mounts what am I looking for to know they need replacing?
    RS4 B7 Phantom Black Centre Resonator Delete

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IchBautAuto View Post
    Don't own a B7 so this is engineering advice rather than owner experience. Everything that you have been advised so far is good advice, and unless you apply some serious fault finding, you could be chasing this for a while. Bottom line is the drive train has a larger than normal number of flexible drive components (CV joints etc) that wear, plus the earlier mentioned machinery mounts front to back. Say 1/4 degree wear in 11 CV joints plus gearbox and diff backlash is a certain source of clunks. Going on / off throttle in gear will hopefully replicate the noise but won't pinpoint it for sure. Another thing to consider is if you are a tad less than smooth with gear changes. Some can drive a manual like it was an auto and some, you can't but help feel every change.

    My recommendation, get it on a hoist and visually inspect every mount. No leaks from any fluid filled or visible torn rubber or noticeable distortion or off center location. Finally, CV Boots for tears or leaks. If everything there is visually OK then it is more likely than not to be an accumulation of wear which is almost impossible to resolve without a serious investment for an older car.
    Thank you also for your help, I have replaced the front left inner boot joint 4 weeks ago as it was torn when I got it and it appeared to have been damaged recently. I checked the other one today and it looks completely fine.
    RS4 B7 Phantom Black Centre Resonator Delete

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by demon8991 View Post
    Thanks so much for the help and advice really appreciate it.

    Haven't noticed it under heavy load, it was doing it as I was driving back at about 50 kph today. Will drive tomorrow and check for heavy load knocking and without changing gear.

    When I had the 300 point check done when I purchased it I think the mechanic mentioned that the engine mount warning flashed up and went away (correct me if I am wrong on this).

    If I check the mounts what am I looking for to know they need replacing?
    if you look at this pic https://imagecdn2.panjo.com/images/d...cc88aea1e2.jpg you can see that the rubber from the centre hole going up at 12 o'clock is all cracked. That mount is stuffed, you can only really see it once you get it out of the car.

    If it was doing it at slow speed & low RPM, i would also look at stuff like anti roll-bar bushings as a loose roll bar in a mount could also cause a similar sound. I lost a bolt from a rear sway bar mount and it cause a similar noise at low rpm.

    I think your in Brisbane, so if you really want a specialist to look at it, take it to Mike Weber Prestige and Performance https://prestigeandperformance.com.au/ They do a lot of Audi work and certainly know that model well.

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    Just to add a bit more to this as I will continue to do.

    I did a very short drive to the station this morning and it clunks when cold too. I obviously didn't rev it hard but noticed it most between gears 2 and 3 although I don’t change 1st to 2nd often. The noise and feeling happens when the shifter is moved into position betfore the clutch is released or applying power.
    RS4 B7 Phantom Black Centre Resonator Delete

  10. #10

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    This is way different to the original description. So, to confirm, this sound emanates when you move the gear lever from 1 into 2 or 2 into 3? and before you release the clutch even 1mm. I would envisage that this means that the source could be the gearbox, shift linkages or clutch mechanism. The gearbox has a detent for each gear, a spring loaded ball that engages a relief in the shafts and holds the car in gear. Maybeee........... Excess play in the linkages? Throw out bearing on the clutch if you just move enough to lightly engage the bearing face. Of course, as you change gear, the drive chain unwinds too, so a clunk could occur from any of the previously mentioned sites under the right circumstances.

    Best of all, if someone looks at it, something might be obvious. It's not ideal to bombard you with a pile of potential causes no matter how remote but with a question asked, you get the best efforts to identify something :)
    B5 RS4 : Lightly modified -- C5 2.7 allroad -- B5 A4 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

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