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Thread: B5 Rs4 Gearbox

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by jsol View Post
    I was hoping you would chip in. So your late model trans main shaft had the 105 J suffix too?
    Inputshaft.jpg
    Yes that is correct. I had to replace mine. Part number to replace was 01E 311 105 J.
    Scotty did ask if I wanted a flexible shaft but I went with OEM.
    The above Picture is the S/RS shaft vs the flexible shaft.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by jsol View Post
    Also do you prefer the shorter gearing of the RS4 over the S4? Although in this thread Scotty from Advanced Automotion claims otherwise;

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...S4-gear-ratios
    The S4 gearing is only better for 400m and 100-200km/h times because the car stays in the torque longer up top. On the shorter RS 4th gear, it hits 200 at 7200rpm. Above 6500rpm on K04's, torque is dropping off fast. For street driving, I prefer the shorter gearing.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by thingo View Post
    Hi guys, I know I'm just a lurker here, but I may be in need of a gearbox for my b5 RS4, (FDP is the code I think?) anyone have a lead on one? (in Australia preferably) I'm expecting a rebuild is wiser but you never know.
    If you choose to rebuild it, be prepared for costs to blow out if you are rebuilding it because its grinding gears if you shift fast.
    I had mine rebuilt due to the 1st to 2nd shift grinding if I shifted too fast(faster than 2seconds). I went with the full JHM rebuild/upgrade kit. When it was opened up. I has pitting on the main shaft where first gear engaged. Needed a new one(1095USD) First and second gear were badly worn on the syncronising part of the gear. Needed new 1st and 2nd gear(495USD and 395USD each).
    I also had them cryogenically treated to strengthen these parts and also WPC treated to increase wear life by making the surfaces hold oil.
    Parts took 6months to arrive.
    The good news is the gearbox is magic to shift now. Very snappy gear changes. I have all the JHmotorsport upgrades(short shifter trio, cross rod, shifter centering spring). The shifting now is very direct and light.

  4. #14

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    It doesn’t crunch and changes fine, I’ve had the shifter linkages replaced, it sounds like bearings to me, though I have ordered a few parts in case, something is not right in there.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by thingo View Post
    It doesn’t crunch and changes fine, I’ve had the shifter linkages replaced, it sounds like bearings to me, though I have ordered a few parts in case, something is not right in there.
    Has the car suddenly started making these noises?
    Bearing failures are very rare in this box.
    What flywheel is in the car?

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by thingo View Post
    It doesnít crunch and changes fine, Iíve had the shifter linkages replaced, it sounds like bearings to me, though I have ordered a few parts in case, something is not right in there.
    Been toing and froing with PM's on this so not late to the discussion, just off line. Pretty much a common view here that it is LESS likely to be bearings, albeit only a strip down would alleviate that option completely. With no crunches and good shifting, all the common problems with this box are not evident.

    I've had noises and niggling issues come and go. They have all been introduced and then resolved by adjustment or completing a partially finished job. New GB mounts raised the box and impacted on the shift adjustment and introduced some crunching 1-2. Only fitting a short shifter and a meticulous linkage adjustment solved the problem. Fitted a poly tailshaft end diff mount, instant bearing / gear noise. When the AK motorsport diff carrier arrived, new OE bushes with some stiffening added completely removed the diff noise. The one thing that I never noticed was any obvious improvement with fluid changes. I've used Motul gear 300 which should be as good as you get, so the previous oil wasn't so bad as to show any improvement with change.

    While there is nothing lost but money in doing a gearbox strip, I'm still inclined to think that there are other options that could be investigated first. If there are problems then they need to be fixed anyway. The whole driveline could be involved somewhere.

    Needless to say, diagnosis by forum is fraught with issues so I for one don't expect to be surprised by what ever the outcome is identified as.
    B5 RS4 : Lightly modified -- C5 2.7 allroad -- B5 A4 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by IchBautAuto View Post
    Been toing and froing with PM's on this so not late to the discussion, just off line. Pretty much a common view here that it is LESS likely to be bearings, albeit only a strip down would alleviate that option completely. With no crunches and good shifting, all the common problems with this box are not evident.

    I've had noises and niggling issues come and go. They have all been introduced and then resolved by adjustment or completing a partially finished job. New GB mounts raised the box and impacted on the shift adjustment and introduced some crunching 1-2. Only fitting a short shifter and a meticulous linkage adjustment solved the problem. Fitted a poly tailshaft end diff mount, instant bearing / gear noise. When the AK motorsport diff carrier arrived, new OE bushes with some stiffening added completely removed the diff noise. The one thing that I never noticed was any obvious improvement with fluid changes. I've used Motul gear 300 which should be as good as you get, so the previous oil wasn't so bad as to show any improvement with change.

    While there is nothing lost but money in doing a gearbox strip, I'm still inclined to think that there are other options that could be investigated first. If there are problems then they need to be fixed anyway. The whole driveline could be involved somewhere.

    Needless to say, diagnosis by forum is fraught with issues so I for one don't expect to be surprised by what ever the outcome is identified as.
    Just a forum view but reckon you get your rubber mounts all sorted first and I'm partial to stern parts. Then look at you shifter mechanism bits and what floats your boat. Eg stock or Jhm or a mix. So about 650 there for the basics and you have a good basis to work from and a better drive regardless. Then no improvement its synco's and gearbox oil( I'm biased eg audi parts so it scotty at advanced automation. After that agree its a money pit particularly if you don't wrench. yourself. Plus I wouldn't do the syncros without doing a clutch at the same time, mounts and shifter mechanism Eg I dont wrench so doing all the above at the same time saves man hours on the bill.
    Last edited by smit2100; April 9th, 2019 at 11:15 AM.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by smit2100 View Post
    ................ its synco's and gearbox oil( I'm biased eg audi parts so it scotty at advanced automation...................................
    Tony, you and I are both behind the times, Scotty doesn't sell the Audi Synchro kits any more. Bit unclear why not but sure we'll find out one day.
    B5 RS4 : Lightly modified -- C5 2.7 allroad -- B5 A4 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

  9. #19

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    Thanks guys, I started with the mounts and the the shifter linkages, as I said I'm a lurker, so I have some idea of the wear parts. they improved a lot of things, but probably made it more obvious there was a problem (or two). The driveshaft is no good but it isn't just that, and just visually I have always been suspicious of the gearbox, it just doesn't match the rest of the car, so I think it is just time to pull it out and have a proper look at it.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by IchBautAuto View Post
    Tony, you and I are both behind the times, Scotty doesn't sell the Audi Synchro kits any more. Bit unclear why not but sure we'll find out one day.
    He was the man for anything b5 gearbox wise. Was not convinced of jhms kits at the time.

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