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Thread: B5 S4 Power Steering Return Hose Replacement

  1. #1
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    Default B5 S4 Power Steering Return Hose Replacement

    I'm sure someone here has done it... I'm seeing a seep from the PS return hose on the passenger side of my 2000 S4, at the ferrule where the steel pipe joins the rubber one. I have the replacement hose and the main issue I have is accessing the Allen bolt (M8?) mid way across the car, underneath the ledge in front of the firewall. This retains the PS hose to the bodywork, in the most awkward place imaginable... (But is an Audi, and nothing is easy on there cars!) Anyone who has removed/replaced a rack in situ will have needed to remove this bolt, so I'm wondering how to get at it without removing the engine...
    Rob
    1999 Nogaro S4
    2010 TT RS

  2. #2
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    Default

    Haven't needed to do it yet but many OS have done it. Most likely either a special tool or access to a vast range of tools for one that may do the job. I have drawers of odd sized and shaped stuff that solves most problems. So, sorry no definitive answer.
    C5 RS6: Sportec, Milltek & Wagner -- B5 RS4 : modified -- B5 Audi 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- 2007 VW Touareg TDI 3.0 with air suspension and lockers-- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

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    PorkyS4 (December 15th, 2021)

  4. #3
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    Hi Porky, I've had to get to this bolt before with the engine in...

    I used a 10mm racheting spanner that has a pivot (pivots up to 90 degrees each way) at the racheting end (bought a set from supercheap auto), and inserted a short hex/allen bit (that has a 10mm base) facing upwards into the racheting spanner and bent mostly up at the pivot. This creates pretty much a "U" shaped combined tool that you can rachet almost vertically (and at changing angles as you do it as required) from above, with the allen bit facing upwards and under the ledge to undo/redo the bolt.

    It can be very tight to to initially crack/undo so something like Loctite freeze-and-release spray (available at autobarn) really helps with this. I just use it anyway to make it as easy as possible straight away.

    To get to it the Y-pipe and spider-hose at the very least has to come out, and possible something else but it has been a while so just see while in there.

    To be honest, the banjo bolt/bolts at the rack gave me much more of a headache due to being even further in under the ledge and behind shielding and off to the side, and needing more force and finesse as well trying to position the two new crush washers at the steering rack basically by feel alone. Had to bend and cut an angled ring-spanner to eventually manage it.

    Either way it can be done but can be a massive pain, good luck

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    PorkyS4 (December 15th, 2021)

  6. #4
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    Thanks heaps for the detailed reply. Hadn't really considered attacking the bolt from the top, just peering at it from underneath. I'm well-schooled on work at the back of the engine, have the scar tissue to prove! I'll assess work Vs reward and consider whether I REALLY need to replace this hose...

    Thanks again
    Porky (Rob)
    Rob
    1999 Nogaro S4
    2010 TT RS

  7. #5
    Join Date
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    From what I can remember when I had to replace the return line we got to it through the wheel well with the fender liner removed, can't recall if we had any luck from the top.
    Just remember there was a lot of swearing and tools being thrown.
    WAUZZZ
    Current
    B7 A4 2.0TQ
    APR
    8P A3 REVO
    B6 S4 JHM
    B8 S4
    Past
    B5 A4 1.8TQ
    B5 A4 1.8T
    B5 S4 GIAC

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    PorkyS4 (December 17th, 2021)

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