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Thread: B7 RS4 lazy start issue

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike View Post
    Ive had issues with battery In the past from an old tracker that had a backup battery that was killing my main car battery.

    Once I pulled the old tracker back up battery out that solved an issue with my new battery not having enough charge to start car after 1 week.

    ...................

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Same problem with the RS6. The Alarm battery is a real killer once it goes. There are plenty of culprits to choose from and if you use a sparky, labour costs will kill you just tracking down the problam.
    C5 RS6: Sportec, Milltek & Wagner -- B5 RS4 : modified -- B5 Audi 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- 2007 VW Touareg TDI 3.0 with air suspension and lockers-- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

  2. #12

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    I'm a little confused here. Should I be hooking it up every time the car is in the shed or just every couple of weeks?
    Current: 2006 B7 RS4 Avant in Imola

    Previous: 2004 A4 1.8 Turbo Quattro

    APR Stage 1 | Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers | Remus Exhausts | 18" RS6 Reps | Brushed Alum Mirrors | Phatbox | RS4 Pedals | RS4 Gear Knob

  3. #13
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    I only plug mine if every couple of weeks, or if it's going to be sitting for a week or so without being driven.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by oxblood8 View Post
    I'm a little confused here. Should I be hooking it up every time the car is in the shed or just every couple of weeks?
    Depends on how often (and how) the car is being driven.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by oxblood8 View Post
    I'm a little confused here. Should I be hooking it up every time the car is in the shed or just every couple of weeks?
    Mate, don't get confused by the science. You wouldn't top up your red if it was already full to the brim. Either get a battery monitor (the lazy way) or check the voltage with a meter, when it gets down to 60%, put the charger on and at least let it complete the cycle until the green light illuminates (MXS10) at stage 7?. If you aren't using it for a few days you can just leave it or disconnect and wait until it drops again. There are a ton of opinions out there but it is just a basic equation of start with a 100% battery and let it work down to 60% or so and then top it up again. Stop the voltage from dropping below 2.05V/cell which is when the battery starts to Sulphate. This means a lower voltage of 12.3 Volts. Fully charged includes a surface charge that disapates in a few hours so the recommended float voltage of most flooded lead acid batteries is 2.25V to 2.27V/cell. Large stationary batteries at 25C typically float at 2.25V/cell. Lower the float charge when the ambient temperature rises above 29C. A resting battery fully charged will be 12.6 - 12.8 V. The lower voltage is as the battery ages.

    Watch out for the maintenance cycle, it uses 15v from memory (for AGM and very cold climes) and that can overdo it if you use it regularly in warmer places. Charging beyond the specified limits turns redundant energy into heat and the battery begins to gas. It is an Annual maintenance routine and it will claw back a flat battery most times but that battery may be damaged if it was flat for too long.

    If your battery is dropping to 60% in a few days then it is either well on the way out or you have a serious parasitic drain if the battery is the recommended size.
    C5 RS6: Sportec, Milltek & Wagner -- B5 RS4 : modified -- B5 Audi 1.8 quattro 132 Kw -- 2007 VW Touareg TDI 3.0 with air suspension and lockers-- UNIMOG 404 TLF8

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnrdavo View Post
    I've just got mine sticking out of the boot bottom (internal) and plug the connector in to that..

    The problem is that I've driven away with the charger still connected twice now... So much so that last time it striped the connector. I've had to put on some electrical 'connectors'. AND, I've driven away with it connected again, but this time is just pulled apart the connectors, job done!
    For a long time I had a cardboard sign that sat on the steering wheel that said Disconnect Charger D****Head.
    Current - 2007 B7 RS4 Avant, APR Stage 3, Milltek with Hi Flo Cats, GruppeM intake, Sachs Clutch, Factory Ceramics, JHM Shifter, RS6 FBSTW, AMI & Hi Res RSNE
    Current - 2012 B8 A4, 2.0T Quattro Avant SLine
    Current - 2001 B5 S4 Imola Yellow Avant
    Current - 1989 B3 90 Quattro - 7A NA Engine, (Long Term Restoration Project)
    Current - 1984 WR Ur Quattro

  7. #17

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    So I got myself a CTEK, which by the way is great.

    Anyway I was doing some more digging yesterday with VCDS as I have a fault code related to the starter relay

    012424 - Starter Relay
    P3088 - 001 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00100001
    Fault Priority: 0
    Fault Frequency: 5
    Reset counter: 255
    Mileage: 121260 km
    Time Indication: 0

    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 0 /min
    Load: 0.0 %
    Speed: 0.0 km/h
    Temperature: 21.0C
    Temperature: 22.0C
    Absolute Pres.: 950.0 mbar
    Voltage: 11.049 V


    Going by this post on Audizine (
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/883244-intermittent-no-starter-cranking?p=13991772&viewfull=1#post13991772) the relays for the starter motor should be 381's. However mine are 373s. Would this make any difference with the lazy start issue I am facing?



    Current: 2006 B7 RS4 Avant in Imola

    Previous: 2004 A4 1.8 Turbo Quattro

    APR Stage 1 | Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers | Remus Exhausts | 18" RS6 Reps | Brushed Alum Mirrors | Phatbox | RS4 Pedals | RS4 Gear Knob

  8. #18
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    I wouldnt worry so much about exact relay number as there have been several revisions and update from what Ive seen.

    I would guess that code error is from a low voltage battery.

    I would charge battery 100% clear codes and see if it comes back.


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  9. #19

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    I had a similar issue with my S4, and it was more prevalent in winter.

    It was usually just corrosion on the points, so I would get some sandpaper and scruff the battery terminals and inside of the battery wire terminals.

    Worked well for me.


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  10. #20

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    So my CTEK MXS10.0 cooked a few weeks ago, it has been returned and thankfully will be replaced by CTEK. How this happened, I've no idea.

    So I had it wired up in the boot directly to the battery, no issues at all. I then purchased the alligator clips so I could hook it up under the bonnet for convenience.

    Hooked it up and it blew the fuse in the alligator lead and also i heard a pop on the charger. Sure enough, no lights on charger. Unplug it, plug it back in, lights up, however doesn't charge. Had this confirmed by my local battery business.

    Luckily the CTEK will be replaced, however I am a tad hesitant to hook it up again under the bonnet. I wonder if the alligator cable was faulty. I've gone back to my cheapo Aldi charger the past 2 weeks and no issues at all connecting that under the bonnet.
    Current: 2006 B7 RS4 Avant in Imola

    Previous: 2004 A4 1.8 Turbo Quattro

    APR Stage 1 | Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers | Remus Exhausts | 18" RS6 Reps | Brushed Alum Mirrors | Phatbox | RS4 Pedals | RS4 Gear Knob

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