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Parking brake manual reset C6 A6 Allroad 2010

Bordertech

New member
Hi all.
I have to replace my rear pads and I know you can manually adjust back the electric parking brake to push the caliper piston back in but wondering how it can be manually reset. I don't have the OBD gear to do the park brake reset electrically.
Does the electric brake automatically readjust after fitting new pads?

Thanks in advance
 
Lots of Youtube clips on how to do it. But then again, lots of Youtube clips on stuff I wouldn't do...

Best to do it with the OBD tool. Whereabouts are you? Not a complicated job with the tool. Some members here would probably be happy to help if they know where you are.
 
Agree with the above - best done properly with the appropriate diagnostics tool.
 
Thanks for the replies. New pads and discs are in now. All working well. I unplugged the PB motors and used a small 12v battery and connected wires to the terminals to wind them back to retract the pistons. (Note: I left the park brake disengaged before starting the job) Being a dc motor, just reversing the polarity on the motor terminals or battery winds it in or out, and then using a basic piston tool to retract the piston was easy with the bleed nipple slightly cracked open. As for resetting, once all back together and bled up, started the car, (parking brake malfunction light flashing) then cycled the park brake button on and off 2-3 times and the malfunction light went out. It automatically resets itself as the pads wear down anyway so it just resets to suit the new pads. I cycled it a handful more times just to be sure. Test drive all good.

One thing though, Is it common for the inside rear pads (piston side) to wear down 2-3 times quicker than the outside?
My LHS inner pad was down to 0.5mm and the RHS inner about 2mm. The outside pads were hardly worn - about 6-8mm left. The caliper pins were free sliding as ever too. I'll be checking them in a few months. In the meantime will see how these Brembo pads & discs perform.
 
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Lots of Youtube clips on how to do it. But then again, lots of Youtube clips on stuff I wouldn't do...

Best to do it with the OBD tool. Whereabouts are you? Not a complicated job with the tool. Some members here would probably be happy to help if they know where you are.
Hi mate, I'm in country SA and there's hardly any Audi's in my town, probably 10 at the most and I doubt any of those owners would have spanners let alone the OBD tool lol. I will get one eventually. Any recommendations of one, that does other vehicles as well in the VW family & beyond? Maybe I could fix theirs then too ha.
 
Hi everybody. This appears to be the best place to ask a few questions. My son has recently bought a 2009 (manufactured 2008) A6 Quattro TDI3. He heard scrubbing noise in what he thought was his rear brakes which turned out to be correct. After watching a few YT videos and with reasonable mechanical experience I decided to go about changing the pads manually. These are the steps I followed and mind you, I've never worked on EPB or an Audi.

Chock front wheels on level ground. Disengage EPB. Gear shift in Park. Ignition off and key removed. Unscrew hydraulic fluid reservoir cap. Jack and stand vehicle. Remove wheel. Remove calliper bolts. Remove calliper and worn pads. Disconnect EPB connecter. Remove EPB motor from calliper and manually wind mechanical EPB mechanism all the way back clockwise, less 1/8 turn back. Push piston back into calliper. All of this was followed with reverse order re-assembly with replacement pads and cleaning where needed, then repeated on the driver's side.

I had seen advice to pump the brake pedal to hard before proceeding, so I did. This would obviously move the piston out hydraulically and away from the mechanical EPB components inside the callipers. When I turned the ignition on there were beeps and warnings on the dash concerning the Park Brake and the Brake system needing a service. I tried engaging and disengaging the EPB a few times, but it didn't take up the slack. When test driven there was a continuous alarm the stayed on until the car was stopped. The Park Brake was not holding the car, but it did grab if applied when in motion. It was getting dark, so I parked it until this morning.

So, this morning I took the car out and started it. To my surprise there was no alarm, but the dash warning lights were still on. I drove down the road and pulled up on a slight slope and while rolling forward in neutral applied the Park Brake. The Park Brake grabbed but didn't stop completely. On the second time I did this the car stopped and the warnings lights all went out. It is now driving as normal.

My questions are:
Did it just take time and repeated use for the EPB electro-mechanical system to send clear data to the computer?
I need to pull it back apart to replace the rotors. Can I just repeat the procedure safely or is it fraught with danger?
If it is safe to do it this way, did I do anything wrong or miss anything?

I'm looking at buying a used OBDEleven Version 1 (for Android only) or possibly a Version 2 before I try this operation. Do these still work with the basic App on mobile devices, or do I need to buy the Pro Licence?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks. I'd already watched that one. I've given it further thought and I believe that using that method, or as I did by removing the motor and winding it out manually, should be safe. There are no sensors on the rear brake pads so the only problem would have been that after pumping the brake pedal up hard, the EPB push mechanism was not in contact with the piston inside the callipers. Once the Park Brake is operated sufficiently to create contact it was all good.

At least that's the way I see it when I think about what I did and what happened.
 
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