-
Welcome to ozAudi.com If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the Forums Rules by clicking the hyperlink.
Note that you are required to register before you can post.
If you experience a problem logging in, drop me an email to admin@ozAudi.com and I'll sort it out for you.
To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Turbo 90Q!! Cont.
- Thread starter SilverCQ
- Start date
SilverCQ
New member
Been a very fun while driving it.
For about 298hp (flywheel if I math'd right) its fairly quick, I randomly on the street figured out it matches a 'stage 2' S3 (I don't know if stage 2 uses stock turbo because I don't talk in stages, but I know it was stock turbo) which I'd say is fairly good, ~370hp DSG vs ~298hp manual with on/off boost and their a match in speed.
Anyway, I've done some research and looking and everything and have determined what is next. RS2 manifold exh manifold (either eBay or Wagner), a 7bar MAP sensor (Vi-PEC V88 can read 7bar), maybe a new downpipe (cause 2.25" with annoying lambda placement) and the main attraction, a 034motorsport 'hybrid' GT3071/K26 with low A/R).
This I reckon is going to be very fun and should be about it for this current engine build (although that will be happening later this year) but I have one slight problem and I've been trying to figure out since the dyno visit. According to the tuner @ 6,600rpm it was making a valve bind sound which is odd knowing the top end should be fairly good for that kind of rev... It has Supertech 'high rev' valve springs (from 034) & lightweight lifters (from 034 as well so I believe their the 'titanium lifters') and standard 7A cams so it shouldn't be from the cam, but I still decided to check and looking in from the oil filler on the valve cover (at the intake side, according to a different forum the intake cam has higher lift than exh) and looking in there is plenty of room between the coils at high lift. So I'm kind of stumped what it might possibly be, I'm not ruling out that it could be a characteristic of the 5zyl.
We have had this issue before but never tried to pursue why it was doing it with our 10v turbo, our tuner from ~2001 Niel mentioned about valve spring bind @ ~6,600rpm. Ofc we didn't try and figure out the issue cause I wasn't even born yet and grandad thinks that it is enough power from it (very much same power as mine cause side by side their identical which is impressive considering the URQ was re-tuned and street driving in 2001... which is partially why I'm thinking its a characteristic but I'd doubt it, I've spoken to a few people and unfortunately they've never encountered this issue so
Aside from that it still has a while before things happen to it, I'd just want to figure out what could be this 'revving' issue and once thats figured out & with the future turbo and accompanying mods, it should be one of most fun cars I've ever been in.
Below are videos, it makes all the good sounds and does get a move on but to me it ain't quick enough yet.
Idle K26
0-100 K26
I just noticed as well, in the 0-100 it doesn't actually hit 20psi boost the f.... guess I'll see if it does actually hit that boost tomorrow morning. Other note, hopefully someone knows or has an idea on what this 'valve spring binding' sound might be...
For about 298hp (flywheel if I math'd right) its fairly quick, I randomly on the street figured out it matches a 'stage 2' S3 (I don't know if stage 2 uses stock turbo because I don't talk in stages, but I know it was stock turbo) which I'd say is fairly good, ~370hp DSG vs ~298hp manual with on/off boost and their a match in speed.
Anyway, I've done some research and looking and everything and have determined what is next. RS2 manifold exh manifold (either eBay or Wagner), a 7bar MAP sensor (Vi-PEC V88 can read 7bar), maybe a new downpipe (cause 2.25" with annoying lambda placement) and the main attraction, a 034motorsport 'hybrid' GT3071/K26 with low A/R).
This I reckon is going to be very fun and should be about it for this current engine build (although that will be happening later this year) but I have one slight problem and I've been trying to figure out since the dyno visit. According to the tuner @ 6,600rpm it was making a valve bind sound which is odd knowing the top end should be fairly good for that kind of rev... It has Supertech 'high rev' valve springs (from 034) & lightweight lifters (from 034 as well so I believe their the 'titanium lifters') and standard 7A cams so it shouldn't be from the cam, but I still decided to check and looking in from the oil filler on the valve cover (at the intake side, according to a different forum the intake cam has higher lift than exh) and looking in there is plenty of room between the coils at high lift. So I'm kind of stumped what it might possibly be, I'm not ruling out that it could be a characteristic of the 5zyl.
We have had this issue before but never tried to pursue why it was doing it with our 10v turbo, our tuner from ~2001 Niel mentioned about valve spring bind @ ~6,600rpm. Ofc we didn't try and figure out the issue cause I wasn't even born yet and grandad thinks that it is enough power from it (very much same power as mine cause side by side their identical which is impressive considering the URQ was re-tuned and street driving in 2001... which is partially why I'm thinking its a characteristic but I'd doubt it, I've spoken to a few people and unfortunately they've never encountered this issue so
Aside from that it still has a while before things happen to it, I'd just want to figure out what could be this 'revving' issue and once thats figured out & with the future turbo and accompanying mods, it should be one of most fun cars I've ever been in.
Below are videos, it makes all the good sounds and does get a move on but to me it ain't quick enough yet.
Idle K26
0-100 K26
I just noticed as well, in the 0-100 it doesn't actually hit 20psi boost the f.... guess I'll see if it does actually hit that boost tomorrow morning. Other note, hopefully someone knows or has an idea on what this 'valve spring binding' sound might be...
I'm no expert, but found this..
Sent from my SM-S926B using Tapatalk
Coil bind (or bottomed out valve springs)
Hey any valve train experts out there? Apparently this type of marking is caused by coil binding (valve spring compressed until they cant compress any more) Now what the reason behind the coil bind is what i want to know. In particular if followers or oil pressure out of spec could cause it...
www.ozaudi.com
Sent from my SM-S926B using Tapatalk
SilverCQ
New member
Finally I'm back and with some info and 'unfortunate' news.
The cars been running fine for a while, doing wonderous things in that time while I been waiting for sometime next month when I would order a few items...
For the info. Valve spring sound could be tied specifically to flow of the exhaust (manifold & possibly downpipe) which wouldn't be surprising.
The Rods in this car is from an NG (I also have a 90 sport FWD with the NG motor as well). According to an old forum I think its S2forums it has info containing rod similarities and so on, and I checked as much as I could to back it up and by the seems of it. The rods used in the RS2 ADU motor are the same part numbers as the 7A, NG, AAN the lot which might've changed my 450nm limit to about 550nm (thanks to those who had tested in RS2's and such all those years ago, would've been very fun to test)
Wagner RS2 EVO exhaust manifold is very, very good apparently. Slight upgrade from RS2 manifold because Wagner has bigger runners that I've heard so it goes well.
The Unfortunate news thought.
Serviced earlier that day with 20w-60, filter & recalibrated Lambda, it did see some fun driving later in the day until I went to get some food. Getting onto highway, give it some as what you usually would do then at the next set of lights, it was like I had accidentally parked inside a cloud... I thought it might be something else, then I noticed it was coming from the exhaust so I went onto a side street as fast as I could to determine issue.
Oil was fine (bottom of dipstick because the car was running), coolant was fine, intercool-ant was fine, no random sprays of anything weird, it was strange. Everything seemed fine but there was smoke out the exhaust, it looked white because it was night then I noticed a blue tint, so I went home as quick as I could without pushing the motor. It was running perfect except the idle hunted slightly and on decel it popped alot, sounded like the rally cars.
When got home I had let it sit for a while so oil could flow back into oil pan, and let it cool down slightly so I could pull the plugs to determine where the issue was happening.
Sat for a while and checked basics again, oil was clean & sat at the right spot, coolant was clean and full, Intercool-ant was clear & full, same as before so I checked plugs.
I left image big so its easier to see, but the plugs were perfectly dry, the looked fine. (for comparison image below is after first dyno where tuner overfilled it by like 1L)
So I had determined, it wasn't motor it was turbo side. So to check what side of the turbo, dry plugs so I had a suspicion it was exhaust side but best to be certain so I pulled BOV off (plugged into same system but closer to turbo so it would be oily if it was intake side) and it too was perfectly dry.
After this I checked if it had something to do with weird oiling (like pumping oil into the head and not returning). Which it wasn't cause it would've overflowed like crazy, and a broken PCV pressurizing the crankcase wasn't a thing either cause it vents to atmosphere (goes head > hose > under the car, not into catchcan which fell out on the first drive so I couldn't reuse it)
So from this logic from what I can tell, the exhaust seal on the turbo has finally had enough and decided to give up. Something dad had mentioned was old Bathurst with the old Sierra Cosworth's racing around, you could tell that they blew a turbo when all there was, was a huge puff of burned oil out the exhaust. Apparently the Quattro's also had this sorta thing happen when rally racing.
Anyway. I have a theory, 3B manifold gets hot from poor flow & the K26 being a restriction (a 300hp turbo being run at 298hp) this combo probably ruined the turbo unfortunately... But the fix I have isn't just a turbo rebuild. Instead it's going to be Wagner RS2 EVO exhaust manifold, potentially a 2.5" downpipe, K26/3071 with 0.8 A/R & a 7bar MAP sensor. I'm just waiting for a response from 034 about turbo details, so parts may change based on limitations & what's needed.
Aside from that though, thought I might quickly mention this while I'm here. The 90 Sport FWD I mentioned earlier, I am planning on selling it but I'm on the fence about it. FWD, manual, 5cyl (NG), 90 Sport (1990) with original rims including spare (not a space saver 5 original rims) in its original coat of Tornado Red. Cars practically all original and has been my daily driver up till the 20v was driving & now that its broken again lol. Brilliant thing it is, all original as well (apart from the exhaust & radio).
The cars been running fine for a while, doing wonderous things in that time while I been waiting for sometime next month when I would order a few items...
For the info. Valve spring sound could be tied specifically to flow of the exhaust (manifold & possibly downpipe) which wouldn't be surprising.
The Rods in this car is from an NG (I also have a 90 sport FWD with the NG motor as well). According to an old forum I think its S2forums it has info containing rod similarities and so on, and I checked as much as I could to back it up and by the seems of it. The rods used in the RS2 ADU motor are the same part numbers as the 7A, NG, AAN the lot which might've changed my 450nm limit to about 550nm (thanks to those who had tested in RS2's and such all those years ago, would've been very fun to test)
Wagner RS2 EVO exhaust manifold is very, very good apparently. Slight upgrade from RS2 manifold because Wagner has bigger runners that I've heard so it goes well.
The Unfortunate news thought.
Serviced earlier that day with 20w-60, filter & recalibrated Lambda, it did see some fun driving later in the day until I went to get some food. Getting onto highway, give it some as what you usually would do then at the next set of lights, it was like I had accidentally parked inside a cloud... I thought it might be something else, then I noticed it was coming from the exhaust so I went onto a side street as fast as I could to determine issue.
Oil was fine (bottom of dipstick because the car was running), coolant was fine, intercool-ant was fine, no random sprays of anything weird, it was strange. Everything seemed fine but there was smoke out the exhaust, it looked white because it was night then I noticed a blue tint, so I went home as quick as I could without pushing the motor. It was running perfect except the idle hunted slightly and on decel it popped alot, sounded like the rally cars.
When got home I had let it sit for a while so oil could flow back into oil pan, and let it cool down slightly so I could pull the plugs to determine where the issue was happening.
Sat for a while and checked basics again, oil was clean & sat at the right spot, coolant was clean and full, Intercool-ant was clear & full, same as before so I checked plugs.
I left image big so its easier to see, but the plugs were perfectly dry, the looked fine. (for comparison image below is after first dyno where tuner overfilled it by like 1L)
So I had determined, it wasn't motor it was turbo side. So to check what side of the turbo, dry plugs so I had a suspicion it was exhaust side but best to be certain so I pulled BOV off (plugged into same system but closer to turbo so it would be oily if it was intake side) and it too was perfectly dry.
After this I checked if it had something to do with weird oiling (like pumping oil into the head and not returning). Which it wasn't cause it would've overflowed like crazy, and a broken PCV pressurizing the crankcase wasn't a thing either cause it vents to atmosphere (goes head > hose > under the car, not into catchcan which fell out on the first drive so I couldn't reuse it)
So from this logic from what I can tell, the exhaust seal on the turbo has finally had enough and decided to give up. Something dad had mentioned was old Bathurst with the old Sierra Cosworth's racing around, you could tell that they blew a turbo when all there was, was a huge puff of burned oil out the exhaust. Apparently the Quattro's also had this sorta thing happen when rally racing.
Anyway. I have a theory, 3B manifold gets hot from poor flow & the K26 being a restriction (a 300hp turbo being run at 298hp) this combo probably ruined the turbo unfortunately... But the fix I have isn't just a turbo rebuild. Instead it's going to be Wagner RS2 EVO exhaust manifold, potentially a 2.5" downpipe, K26/3071 with 0.8 A/R & a 7bar MAP sensor. I'm just waiting for a response from 034 about turbo details, so parts may change based on limitations & what's needed.
Aside from that though, thought I might quickly mention this while I'm here. The 90 Sport FWD I mentioned earlier, I am planning on selling it but I'm on the fence about it. FWD, manual, 5cyl (NG), 90 Sport (1990) with original rims including spare (not a space saver 5 original rims) in its original coat of Tornado Red. Cars practically all original and has been my daily driver up till the 20v was driving & now that its broken again lol. Brilliant thing it is, all original as well (apart from the exhaust & radio).
IchBautAuto
Well-known member
Starting to sound like the Forum of some years ago. Wish you luck with the fix and "upgrade".
SilverCQ
New member
Suppose could call it good luck because I've been on a roll with getting info and figuring stuff out.
It also has just occurred to me that I haven't been up to date with what I've been doing.... at least I figured that out now rather than it blowing up on the dyno.
Apart from dropping a car jack on my foot & the downpipe not wanting to come out without either a driveshaft removed or some 'coercing' its been going fairly well and my theory of the turbo being a problem was spot on.
It used to have an airbox where you now see floor (and part of the jack that hit my foot) and I've taken it out and am not planning on reusing it.
Everything up to the throttle body has been taken out, heat shielding and brackets to hold up the heat shielding. I'm going to be redoing the piping anyway hence why taking it all out.
The downpipe is stubborn and doesn't want to come out, I've unbolted everything from it its just that it won't fit around driveshaft... So I'm probably going to cut it really short and get it remade into a 2.5" (no lambda isn't still plugged in). ALSO I didn't have to use a special Audi tool to get the downpipe off
All it took was a 14mm spanner and reaching underneath the turbo with some slight trouble, but it was just enough to crack the bolt so I could then do it by hand.
Up to now I was a bit concerned on if it actually was the turbo but I got the confirmation upon pulling the downpipe off. Looking in through wastegate hole, it was completely dry and what you expect a exhaust manifold to look like. Downpipe was all oily same as the back of the turbo.
After some struggle getting the damn turbo off because there is a small stud I suppose you could call it that holds some of the heat shielding/brackets for heat shielding in the way but I managed to lift the engine by big pipe wrench and got the turbo out. Not as hard as I thought.
I was a bit concerned though that the turbo might be fine, instead it could be the turbo drain being blocked up somehow and keeping pressure in the turbo (or blocking the flow and superheat the oil and just cause the turbo to try and melt itself. But I blew into the oil drain (probably not the smartest way to figure it out but one way to figure it out) and it was fine, could even hear it bubbling in the sump which made me certain the drain was fine.
I decided to test the turbo and see physically how bad the leak was, or if it even was leaking and I got that what I was after but Jesus it was bad. No pressure as well, I put the hose into the oil drain line (just cause it was easier to spray it into the turbo there than it was to spray through the infeed.
Leaky K26
Weird how bad it was, seems to be common with this car lol. First it was the intercooler leaking under no pressure, now its the turbo oil seal leaking under no pressure lmao.
K26 on the right looks almost small compared to this random old Garrett turbo I have lying around, I know nothing about that Garrett one...
ANYWAY, I happen to have some cool info. I'm after a Wagner EVO RS2 exhaust manifold and I've found one, L & S Cartec make them now, basically the same as Wagner. They even make the SQ manifold, I would LOVE to use the SQ manifold but it wouldn't work with this intercooler, intake manifold, and general placement & routing they need
so I'll settle for the RS2 manifold...
MAP sensor is something I'm not sure about, apparently it's a 3.5bar sensor but I looked up part numbers and I only get a 5bar sensor. Even looking in the ECU it reckons it's a SRS 5bar.... So last thing I'm doing is checking through the old forum, though I'll probably end up reusing it. Because if my math's right, I'll only need a PR of 2.55 to reach 500hp, which is ~20.7psi of boost and the if the sensor is 3.5bar it'll read ~35psi boost.
VAGParts has a kit which I didn't find on the 034 catalogue, but I'm interrogating 034 about it while speaking with them about the K26/3071. Luckily they let me onto the people who actually make the turbo and I was able to get some stellar info. The GT3071R would be basically perfect for my setup and make 500hp possible, I could go to GTX3071R front if I wanted it to comfortably make 500hp. Buuuuuut I'm limiting myself by torque, and that limit is 530nm with an absolute "DO NOT HIT" target of 550nm just to give the rods a chance at survival.
I should be able to get things going soon... Then I'll just be waiting for the manifold from Europe & Turbo w/ entire exhaust kit (like gaskets, studs, bolts, everything), nearly forgot about the downpipe as well that will get done by Fat Pipes who has treated us well every single time we've been there (they did the exhaust on all Audi's in the family and I reckon they've done the best job on the URQ in terms of looks but they went beyond with the sound on my 20v).
Things are starting to get exciting for this car now. I was already glad with 186wkw but after the seal let go I've had to be driving my 10v NA and I haven't missed Quattro & boost in my entire life this much.
It also has just occurred to me that I haven't been up to date with what I've been doing.... at least I figured that out now rather than it blowing up on the dyno.
Apart from dropping a car jack on my foot & the downpipe not wanting to come out without either a driveshaft removed or some 'coercing' its been going fairly well and my theory of the turbo being a problem was spot on.
It used to have an airbox where you now see floor (and part of the jack that hit my foot) and I've taken it out and am not planning on reusing it.
Everything up to the throttle body has been taken out, heat shielding and brackets to hold up the heat shielding. I'm going to be redoing the piping anyway hence why taking it all out.
The downpipe is stubborn and doesn't want to come out, I've unbolted everything from it its just that it won't fit around driveshaft... So I'm probably going to cut it really short and get it remade into a 2.5" (no lambda isn't still plugged in). ALSO I didn't have to use a special Audi tool to get the downpipe off
All it took was a 14mm spanner and reaching underneath the turbo with some slight trouble, but it was just enough to crack the bolt so I could then do it by hand.Up to now I was a bit concerned on if it actually was the turbo but I got the confirmation upon pulling the downpipe off. Looking in through wastegate hole, it was completely dry and what you expect a exhaust manifold to look like. Downpipe was all oily same as the back of the turbo.
After some struggle getting the damn turbo off because there is a small stud I suppose you could call it that holds some of the heat shielding/brackets for heat shielding in the way but I managed to lift the engine by big pipe wrench and got the turbo out. Not as hard as I thought.
I was a bit concerned though that the turbo might be fine, instead it could be the turbo drain being blocked up somehow and keeping pressure in the turbo (or blocking the flow and superheat the oil and just cause the turbo to try and melt itself. But I blew into the oil drain (probably not the smartest way to figure it out but one way to figure it out) and it was fine, could even hear it bubbling in the sump which made me certain the drain was fine.
I decided to test the turbo and see physically how bad the leak was, or if it even was leaking and I got that what I was after but Jesus it was bad. No pressure as well, I put the hose into the oil drain line (just cause it was easier to spray it into the turbo there than it was to spray through the infeed.
Leaky K26
Weird how bad it was, seems to be common with this car lol. First it was the intercooler leaking under no pressure, now its the turbo oil seal leaking under no pressure lmao.
K26 on the right looks almost small compared to this random old Garrett turbo I have lying around, I know nothing about that Garrett one...
ANYWAY, I happen to have some cool info. I'm after a Wagner EVO RS2 exhaust manifold and I've found one, L & S Cartec make them now, basically the same as Wagner. They even make the SQ manifold, I would LOVE to use the SQ manifold but it wouldn't work with this intercooler, intake manifold, and general placement & routing they need
so I'll settle for the RS2 manifold...MAP sensor is something I'm not sure about, apparently it's a 3.5bar sensor but I looked up part numbers and I only get a 5bar sensor. Even looking in the ECU it reckons it's a SRS 5bar.... So last thing I'm doing is checking through the old forum, though I'll probably end up reusing it. Because if my math's right, I'll only need a PR of 2.55 to reach 500hp, which is ~20.7psi of boost and the if the sensor is 3.5bar it'll read ~35psi boost.
VAGParts has a kit which I didn't find on the 034 catalogue, but I'm interrogating 034 about it while speaking with them about the K26/3071. Luckily they let me onto the people who actually make the turbo and I was able to get some stellar info. The GT3071R would be basically perfect for my setup and make 500hp possible, I could go to GTX3071R front if I wanted it to comfortably make 500hp. Buuuuuut I'm limiting myself by torque, and that limit is 530nm with an absolute "DO NOT HIT" target of 550nm just to give the rods a chance at survival.
I should be able to get things going soon... Then I'll just be waiting for the manifold from Europe & Turbo w/ entire exhaust kit (like gaskets, studs, bolts, everything), nearly forgot about the downpipe as well that will get done by Fat Pipes who has treated us well every single time we've been there (they did the exhaust on all Audi's in the family and I reckon they've done the best job on the URQ in terms of looks but they went beyond with the sound on my 20v).
Things are starting to get exciting for this car now. I was already glad with 186wkw but after the seal let go I've had to be driving my 10v NA and I haven't missed Quattro & boost in my entire life this much.
500hp and 500nm is weird I admit.
I suppose it's when the peaks hit the curve.. obviously with a large turbo, you're probably looking at boost coming on at 3.5 rpm or so, so will be interesting to see where the curve really starts and drops off (again, assuming with larger turbo it pulls all the way to red line).
Sent from my SM-S926B using Tapatalk
I suppose it's when the peaks hit the curve.. obviously with a large turbo, you're probably looking at boost coming on at 3.5 rpm or so, so will be interesting to see where the curve really starts and drops off (again, assuming with larger turbo it pulls all the way to red line).
Sent from my SM-S926B using Tapatalk
SilverCQ
New member
I’m fine with boost coming on late, it still has some bottom end compared to a cammed 1.3L.
500hp is a hope, the main limit I want is 530nm just to give the rods a chance.
apparently someone with a KKR turbo (I can’t remember what one, but it was similar to a K27). Managed to get around 440hp & 640nm torque which Jesus… But looking at my dyno results, 186wkw & 371nm torque, I might end up around 250wkw as a realistic guess, altho 300wkw would be pretty good. I suppose I wonder how big of a difference there will be going from 180kw to 240kw…
Not sure what A/R the old K26 was but the one I’m looking at is 0.82 so I think it might have some more breath up top which I’m after.
500hp is a hope, the main limit I want is 530nm just to give the rods a chance.
apparently someone with a KKR turbo (I can’t remember what one, but it was similar to a K27). Managed to get around 440hp & 640nm torque which Jesus… But looking at my dyno results, 186wkw & 371nm torque, I might end up around 250wkw as a realistic guess, altho 300wkw would be pretty good. I suppose I wonder how big of a difference there will be going from 180kw to 240kw…
Not sure what A/R the old K26 was but the one I’m looking at is 0.82 so I think it might have some more breath up top which I’m after.
SilverCQ
New member
Finally everything has arrived. Turbo Fittings, Exhaust Manifold and finally the turbo.
Aus Gov decided to charge me $321 because the turbo was valued at over $1,000 and if I didn't pay, would ship it back to 034Motorsport within 4 days. Great to know thats how much the Gov acts, not charge me for the Cast Iron manifold or anything, the turbo because it costs alot...
Other than the Gov forcing me to pay extra for my turbo (which is still cheaper to buy from 034 than it was to buy from VAGparts) it arrived and looks spectacular:
I haven't seen a good looking turbo like that nearly at all.
Comparing between the K26 to this one is crazy. Inducer is maybe 43mm on the K26, but on this one is 53mm. Turbine side is completely different, they both use a K26 rear housing except this one is waaaay bigger (0.82 A/R) also the cause it's ball-bearing it actually spins amazing JUST by using fingers. I did have to change orientation of housings & the core but still:
I also chose the Bell-mouth because I plan on using a thick mesh so it stops big things from getting sucked in, ALSO sound cause I have removed the BOV from the system which is going to be my attempt at the S1/90 IMSA chirp.
Still took a while for the Manifold to arrive but it did eventually arrive and was pleased it was actually an RS2 manifold but there was a few things.... Like it had no studs so had to get the old ones out (it sucked, but it managed after some 'red hot persuasion'). Comparing between the RS2 manifold & 7A manifold it's just incredible, both are stock manifolds but they do different things:
Another slightly annoying thing was that there was some strange casting imperfections internally so decided to fix that:
^ This was looking down the wastegate stalk, other ports had very slight but wastegate was the worst, on the right is what we finished with.
Not done to smooth perfection, but way better than it used to be.
Enough about the manifold & turbo and now to actually get it on the car.
Before tonight I had swapped RS2 studs on the correct place, I had gotten adapters so my current turbo fittings will work with turbo and so on, so all I have to do is put it together. All this was done while waiting for the exhaust manifold.
As of tonight, I've gone on with it for a few hours and managed to remove the old studs from the exhaust, putting them in the new manifold, replace old hose in the block (for coolant in/out for turbo), clean up the RS2 manifold and mount the RS2 manifold onto the head which I did NOT expect it to be that way... Having to put on all the bolts while the manifold is basically on the edge then having to tighten up 1 of the bolts first unless you gotta undo absolutely everything and start again. THEN seeing that my 13mm does fit on the nuts but its too long to do the bottom 3 nuts (the bottom 3 nuts on the RS2 studs)... So having searched and found the 10V UR Quattro Turbo Exh Manifold spanner (a 12mm cut down so the 'handle' is about 2-3inches long), which didn't fit cause I was smart in trying to find a 12mm when I was using a 13mm...
Now after creating the all new, 20V Quattro Turbo Exh Manifold spanner which is a 13mm cut in half, I was able to tighten up the bottom 3 nuts thankfully. All things considered though, aside from those 4 troublesome bolts it hasn't been extremely difficult, if the manifold studs didn't want to come out of the 3B manifold I could've just gotten some tomorrow:
So far, the manifold is on. All fittings are ready and you can see the spanner in the corner. I did try and put the turbo on but much like removing the K26 from the old manifold, It hit the body
SO tomorrow, we're gonna lift the engine slightly, put turbo on and tight. Then lower until the jack has completely lowered, if it makes contact again, then I'll have to use my special hammer (nearly 1m long pipe wrench) to 'convince the body to let the turbo stay'.
Lil description of the hoses in the photo. Thick braided line goes into sump, its all set with fittings and just has to be bolted to turbo. Thinner braided line is the oil feed line, its got fitting ready to be tightened up and threaded into turbo. 2 big hoses with hose clamps (one has zip tie) on them is for the intercooler. Blue hose is the turbo's coolant in/out (has -6AN fitting attached). Black hose coming up beside the thick braided, is the other side of the coolant in/out going into the block. Somewhat well hidden is the black line to the left of the blue line (has a banjo fitting on the end) goes to the wastegate.
That should be all of them explained.
Turbo switch is going well, I can't wait for the start tomorrow. Once turbo is on, the only tricky bit is gonna be fitting the intercooler back into the intake system but it's not a huge problem cause already changing the intake plumbing for better space utilization (I'm also going to reuse the heat shield partially to cover the brake reservoir & intercooler from the downpipe).
I've also been having a thought about how much power I'm expecting. My limit is 530nm torque at the hubs, I'm guessing it might make it to 450hp but who knows yet. 7.6:1 compression with a big exhaust A/R might make it flow way more top end, so I could be around 530nm and nearly 500hp but I don't know.
Old turbo made 371nm torque (which on the dyno, hp is calculated from 'derived torque' which means 20% power loss is slightly incorrect, its actually about 20% loss of torque which computer then figures out power from.)
If thats true then the 371nm torque it made is actually 463.75nm @ flywheel & 233.125kw (312.6hp) @ flywheel which for a 300hp limit turbo is pretty good lmao.
My guess if that spread of power & torque is 'constant' than I'll probably get about ~540nm & 266kw (~360hp) but I'd doubt that it's constant cause exhaust size is different so later spool and eugh. If its above 240kw (320hp) @ hubs I'm happy.
Aus Gov decided to charge me $321 because the turbo was valued at over $1,000 and if I didn't pay, would ship it back to 034Motorsport within 4 days. Great to know thats how much the Gov acts, not charge me for the Cast Iron manifold or anything, the turbo because it costs alot...
Other than the Gov forcing me to pay extra for my turbo (which is still cheaper to buy from 034 than it was to buy from VAGparts) it arrived and looks spectacular:
I haven't seen a good looking turbo like that nearly at all.
Comparing between the K26 to this one is crazy. Inducer is maybe 43mm on the K26, but on this one is 53mm. Turbine side is completely different, they both use a K26 rear housing except this one is waaaay bigger (0.82 A/R) also the cause it's ball-bearing it actually spins amazing JUST by using fingers. I did have to change orientation of housings & the core but still:
I also chose the Bell-mouth because I plan on using a thick mesh so it stops big things from getting sucked in, ALSO sound cause I have removed the BOV from the system which is going to be my attempt at the S1/90 IMSA chirp.
Still took a while for the Manifold to arrive but it did eventually arrive and was pleased it was actually an RS2 manifold but there was a few things.... Like it had no studs so had to get the old ones out (it sucked, but it managed after some 'red hot persuasion'). Comparing between the RS2 manifold & 7A manifold it's just incredible, both are stock manifolds but they do different things:
Another slightly annoying thing was that there was some strange casting imperfections internally so decided to fix that:
^ This was looking down the wastegate stalk, other ports had very slight but wastegate was the worst, on the right is what we finished with.
Not done to smooth perfection, but way better than it used to be.
Enough about the manifold & turbo and now to actually get it on the car.
Before tonight I had swapped RS2 studs on the correct place, I had gotten adapters so my current turbo fittings will work with turbo and so on, so all I have to do is put it together. All this was done while waiting for the exhaust manifold.
As of tonight, I've gone on with it for a few hours and managed to remove the old studs from the exhaust, putting them in the new manifold, replace old hose in the block (for coolant in/out for turbo), clean up the RS2 manifold and mount the RS2 manifold onto the head which I did NOT expect it to be that way... Having to put on all the bolts while the manifold is basically on the edge then having to tighten up 1 of the bolts first unless you gotta undo absolutely everything and start again. THEN seeing that my 13mm does fit on the nuts but its too long to do the bottom 3 nuts (the bottom 3 nuts on the RS2 studs)... So having searched and found the 10V UR Quattro Turbo Exh Manifold spanner (a 12mm cut down so the 'handle' is about 2-3inches long), which didn't fit cause I was smart in trying to find a 12mm when I was using a 13mm...
Now after creating the all new, 20V Quattro Turbo Exh Manifold spanner which is a 13mm cut in half, I was able to tighten up the bottom 3 nuts thankfully. All things considered though, aside from those 4 troublesome bolts it hasn't been extremely difficult, if the manifold studs didn't want to come out of the 3B manifold I could've just gotten some tomorrow:
So far, the manifold is on. All fittings are ready and you can see the spanner in the corner. I did try and put the turbo on but much like removing the K26 from the old manifold, It hit the body
SO tomorrow, we're gonna lift the engine slightly, put turbo on and tight. Then lower until the jack has completely lowered, if it makes contact again, then I'll have to use my special hammer (nearly 1m long pipe wrench) to 'convince the body to let the turbo stay'.
Lil description of the hoses in the photo. Thick braided line goes into sump, its all set with fittings and just has to be bolted to turbo. Thinner braided line is the oil feed line, its got fitting ready to be tightened up and threaded into turbo. 2 big hoses with hose clamps (one has zip tie) on them is for the intercooler. Blue hose is the turbo's coolant in/out (has -6AN fitting attached). Black hose coming up beside the thick braided, is the other side of the coolant in/out going into the block. Somewhat well hidden is the black line to the left of the blue line (has a banjo fitting on the end) goes to the wastegate.
That should be all of them explained.
Turbo switch is going well, I can't wait for the start tomorrow. Once turbo is on, the only tricky bit is gonna be fitting the intercooler back into the intake system but it's not a huge problem cause already changing the intake plumbing for better space utilization (I'm also going to reuse the heat shield partially to cover the brake reservoir & intercooler from the downpipe).
I've also been having a thought about how much power I'm expecting. My limit is 530nm torque at the hubs, I'm guessing it might make it to 450hp but who knows yet. 7.6:1 compression with a big exhaust A/R might make it flow way more top end, so I could be around 530nm and nearly 500hp but I don't know.
Old turbo made 371nm torque (which on the dyno, hp is calculated from 'derived torque' which means 20% power loss is slightly incorrect, its actually about 20% loss of torque which computer then figures out power from.)
If thats true then the 371nm torque it made is actually 463.75nm @ flywheel & 233.125kw (312.6hp) @ flywheel which for a 300hp limit turbo is pretty good lmao.
My guess if that spread of power & torque is 'constant' than I'll probably get about ~540nm & 266kw (~360hp) but I'd doubt that it's constant cause exhaust size is different so later spool and eugh. If its above 240kw (320hp) @ hubs I'm happy.
SilverCQ
New member
So I haven't progressed much further, after I wrote last piece I've been sick and I most likely know what caused it which we guessed at the time would happen but damn.
Heating up the old cast manifold nearly red hot and 'cracking' studs loose, after we got em loose might've sprayed it with a penetrant which might've evaporated on contact...
Anyway aside from that experience. I have attempted to actually put on the turbo, had to spin the housing's & core so it'll be oriented the right way. Got fittings ready for the direct swap so on. Last time though in order to remove the old turbo I used a giant wrench in-between turbo & manifold and just pulled which ended up lifting the motor but also let the turbo drop out so it worked.
Getting it back in though is a bit of a struggle. It hits against the body just opposite the manifold, even tried using a jack underneath part of the motor and lifting but even then it wasn't enough.
I left the image huge but thats the part which is getting in the way. I think the RS2 manifold moves it slightly but I'm not certain.
Comparing between the 2, the new one is HUGE but there should be plenty of space. Just have to get it on first, I'd have to do the same with the old turbo but I suppose its a strange thing to deal with. Less strange when I remembered these cars never had turbos. The B3 range never had a turbo vehicle (to my knowledge) B4 had S2 & RS2.
It'll be fun once it's on but not only am I having 'fitment' issues with turbo, I now have to deal with a "Activate Windows" issue on my PC (I've always had windows and it hasn't showed up the entire time since I built my PC in June 2023...)
Fun doesn't stop
Heating up the old cast manifold nearly red hot and 'cracking' studs loose, after we got em loose might've sprayed it with a penetrant which might've evaporated on contact...
Anyway aside from that experience. I have attempted to actually put on the turbo, had to spin the housing's & core so it'll be oriented the right way. Got fittings ready for the direct swap so on. Last time though in order to remove the old turbo I used a giant wrench in-between turbo & manifold and just pulled which ended up lifting the motor but also let the turbo drop out so it worked.
Getting it back in though is a bit of a struggle. It hits against the body just opposite the manifold, even tried using a jack underneath part of the motor and lifting but even then it wasn't enough.
I left the image huge but thats the part which is getting in the way. I think the RS2 manifold moves it slightly but I'm not certain.
Comparing between the 2, the new one is HUGE but there should be plenty of space. Just have to get it on first, I'd have to do the same with the old turbo but I suppose its a strange thing to deal with. Less strange when I remembered these cars never had turbos. The B3 range never had a turbo vehicle (to my knowledge) B4 had S2 & RS2.
It'll be fun once it's on but not only am I having 'fitment' issues with turbo, I now have to deal with a "Activate Windows" issue on my PC (I've always had windows and it hasn't showed up the entire time since I built my PC in June 2023...)
Fun doesn't stop
some call it fun, others crazy!
I'm not sure if things are easy you get the same satisfaction as doing things that are hard when you complete them.
good work though, and I love that you are breathing new life in to this car (pun intended!).
Sent from my SM-S926B using Tapatalk
I'm not sure if things are easy you get the same satisfaction as doing things that are hard when you complete them.
good work though, and I love that you are breathing new life in to this car (pun intended!).
Sent from my SM-S926B using Tapatalk
SilverCQ
New member
So after being sick for multiple days which only delayed the car being driving sooner, finally got better enough to actually continue it.
Loosened the right-hand side engine mount so the engine could hopefully turn over more, which gave barely enough space to JUST start to get it on. BUT we ran into an issue:
Loosened engine mount can be seen to the left but the circled area is a clearance issue. The turbine housing keeps hitting into it, which is stopping it from even going on, it was either bash or cut. It just so happens that a hole saw worked pretty good lol.
As said previously, a hole saw works pretty good. Cleaned up around it with a grinder so its not a very sharp edge.
Unfortunately I don't have a better photo but we had to do additional cutting towards the rear from the hole, because the turbo can fit now while the engines raised. But lowering it back to neutral and it leans back into the hole and touches. After doing said cutting it was time for a test fit, no lines or anything connected, just put it on and look:
It looks really good, but currently held on by 2 nuts just for testing. It did hit in a few places after this annoyingly, and I only figured it out after struggling for 20mins with the fkn oil drain (hate the gasket which would stop the bolts from threading and that I had to use a open ended spanner cause ring wouldn't fit, 1/5 turns each time).
Anyway we did end up having to cut a bit more but because it was late we weren't able to finish cutting absolutely everything.
In image below is has 'coloured' sections which has been removed. Red section is a continuation of the hole which lets the turbo actually fit, the blue was I think for holding a bracket which kept the intercooler at a certain height which wouldn't be used anyway to no big deal (the section was more cut at the welds then pull off). Green is the most recent we haven't finished, have to keep going lower cause the drain goes straight down and makes contact:
The little section left is just to keep cutting downwards on the green section, currently the oil drain does clear but its sitting against the end of it (and the engines currently still raised) so we're going to cut it further so the drain has no chance to rub against it and possibly sever the braided line.
Other than the cutting, there is 1 big thing which was slightly confusing but I was able to come up with an idea. Least complex part of the adaptation is a 3" silicone pipe thats maybe 6" long (Intercooler > TB) and the most complicated bit, a 2" hose doing a 45 degree bend into a C which ups to 2.5" (Turbo > Intercooler):
It'll be a challenge but I can see that it'll fit. But this is how it is currently ^ wastegate & extra pipe just to see if intercooler will clear so the routing can get figured out. Really annoying you can't rotate the wastegate so that lil banjo fitting is facing literally any other direction cause it touches intercooler
Fitting downpipe is going to be annoying but so far, the turbo is on and looks like it'll be mint. Wastegate clears as expected, lil coil pipe fits and should work, Downpipe should go on turbo & wastegate with little issue (it'll be more annoying to reconnect Lambda & connect it to the rest of the exhaust). Once the intake has reached a solid conclusion the next & possibly final part will be my pièce de résistance, a momentary push button connected up to the ECU. This momentary push button once held it'll change limiter to ~3,700rpm (50kmh in 2nd gear) and build full boost for an 'electric' take off.
Electric cars can have +3 motors and use as much power as they want, only party piece they have is instant torque (based on motor speed, torque drops off as speed increases hence the insane start but really tapers off the faster you go). I wanna play 'fair' and give their 'instant torque' a run for its money by having 'instant boost'. This this was already stupid when boosting, slow off boost of course but ballistic on boost as a few people have figured out in person. Modern R8 was surprised, but it was hilarious when some guy in some Porsche Boxster driving like their the quickest on the street then meet this lmao.
As said previously though. Now the to-do list has been updated:
1. Finish cutting for oil drain
2. Fit turbo properly & connect lines
3. Fit downpipe (wastegate side as well)
4. Intake piping sorted
5. Refill engine & intercooler coolant, top up oil
6. Start it up and check for leaks
7. Launch button wired but not hidden (once it's working properly and I'm happy with it, then it'll go where the A/C button is)
Loosened the right-hand side engine mount so the engine could hopefully turn over more, which gave barely enough space to JUST start to get it on. BUT we ran into an issue:
Loosened engine mount can be seen to the left but the circled area is a clearance issue. The turbine housing keeps hitting into it, which is stopping it from even going on, it was either bash or cut. It just so happens that a hole saw worked pretty good lol.
As said previously, a hole saw works pretty good. Cleaned up around it with a grinder so its not a very sharp edge.
Unfortunately I don't have a better photo but we had to do additional cutting towards the rear from the hole, because the turbo can fit now while the engines raised. But lowering it back to neutral and it leans back into the hole and touches. After doing said cutting it was time for a test fit, no lines or anything connected, just put it on and look:
It looks really good, but currently held on by 2 nuts just for testing. It did hit in a few places after this annoyingly, and I only figured it out after struggling for 20mins with the fkn oil drain (hate the gasket which would stop the bolts from threading and that I had to use a open ended spanner cause ring wouldn't fit, 1/5 turns each time).
Anyway we did end up having to cut a bit more but because it was late we weren't able to finish cutting absolutely everything.
In image below is has 'coloured' sections which has been removed. Red section is a continuation of the hole which lets the turbo actually fit, the blue was I think for holding a bracket which kept the intercooler at a certain height which wouldn't be used anyway to no big deal (the section was more cut at the welds then pull off). Green is the most recent we haven't finished, have to keep going lower cause the drain goes straight down and makes contact:
The little section left is just to keep cutting downwards on the green section, currently the oil drain does clear but its sitting against the end of it (and the engines currently still raised) so we're going to cut it further so the drain has no chance to rub against it and possibly sever the braided line.
Other than the cutting, there is 1 big thing which was slightly confusing but I was able to come up with an idea. Least complex part of the adaptation is a 3" silicone pipe thats maybe 6" long (Intercooler > TB) and the most complicated bit, a 2" hose doing a 45 degree bend into a C which ups to 2.5" (Turbo > Intercooler):
It'll be a challenge but I can see that it'll fit. But this is how it is currently ^ wastegate & extra pipe just to see if intercooler will clear so the routing can get figured out. Really annoying you can't rotate the wastegate so that lil banjo fitting is facing literally any other direction cause it touches intercooler
Fitting downpipe is going to be annoying but so far, the turbo is on and looks like it'll be mint. Wastegate clears as expected, lil coil pipe fits and should work, Downpipe should go on turbo & wastegate with little issue (it'll be more annoying to reconnect Lambda & connect it to the rest of the exhaust). Once the intake has reached a solid conclusion the next & possibly final part will be my pièce de résistance, a momentary push button connected up to the ECU. This momentary push button once held it'll change limiter to ~3,700rpm (50kmh in 2nd gear) and build full boost for an 'electric' take off.
Electric cars can have +3 motors and use as much power as they want, only party piece they have is instant torque (based on motor speed, torque drops off as speed increases hence the insane start but really tapers off the faster you go). I wanna play 'fair' and give their 'instant torque' a run for its money by having 'instant boost'. This this was already stupid when boosting, slow off boost of course but ballistic on boost as a few people have figured out in person. Modern R8 was surprised, but it was hilarious when some guy in some Porsche Boxster driving like their the quickest on the street then meet this lmao.
As said previously though. Now the to-do list has been updated:
1. Finish cutting for oil drain
2. Fit turbo properly & connect lines
3. Fit downpipe (wastegate side as well)
4. Intake piping sorted
5. Refill engine & intercooler coolant, top up oil
6. Start it up and check for leaks
7. Launch button wired but not hidden (once it's working properly and I'm happy with it, then it'll go where the A/C button is)
SilverCQ
New member
So, a bit has happened.
First start was great, could've gone slightly better if I actually had Lambda plugged in. It started fairly easily, no real problems and the turbo spins waaay faster than we thought it would at idle.
Seriously, after letting go of it after 20s-30s of running it spun so quick we couldn't see individual blades. Dad tried to stop it for some unknown reason and nearly got cut just trying to slow it down so it seems promising for response.
It was run with that lil pipe like that cause it wasn't long enough. Because it doesn't fit we went to Fat Pipes to see if they could do anything about the pipe. The only real solution which reused the pipe was to lengthen it, so we chose to lengthen 20mm-25mm.
The guy said it "sucked to weld" which I can see but it doesn't matter how it looks.
Had to do a lil bit of screwing around. Remove & tighten a coolant line so it didn't leak, painful nut to hold the turbo, painful bolts to hold the downpipe (used to be studs, now is bolts), Lambda not threading because part of the thread is bad (reused old Lambda & calibrated), reattach downpipe to exhaust. Really finicky stuff, and putting wastegate & this lil pipe on was fairly easy. One bolt could go in straight up, we just had to force it so the others could fit.
After some convincing with a crowbar it decided it wanted to work and now all thats left is the intake piping (which luckily we know what to do).
I think the RS2 manifold changes the sound, or its an exhaust leak I didn't pick up. But something about it sounds different from before. Maybe its just the manifold and the larger exhaust side but it sounds pretty good all things considered. I also noticed at idle the turbo pushes some serious air...
Start Full Exhaust
Intakes getting looked at right now and tune should be soonish. Last I saw my tuner was helping a Time-Attack S15 in Sydney so I hope it won't be a while...
First start was great, could've gone slightly better if I actually had Lambda plugged in. It started fairly easily, no real problems and the turbo spins waaay faster than we thought it would at idle.
Seriously, after letting go of it after 20s-30s of running it spun so quick we couldn't see individual blades. Dad tried to stop it for some unknown reason and nearly got cut just trying to slow it down so it seems promising for response.
It was run with that lil pipe like that cause it wasn't long enough. Because it doesn't fit we went to Fat Pipes to see if they could do anything about the pipe. The only real solution which reused the pipe was to lengthen it, so we chose to lengthen 20mm-25mm.
The guy said it "sucked to weld" which I can see but it doesn't matter how it looks.
Had to do a lil bit of screwing around. Remove & tighten a coolant line so it didn't leak, painful nut to hold the turbo, painful bolts to hold the downpipe (used to be studs, now is bolts), Lambda not threading because part of the thread is bad (reused old Lambda & calibrated), reattach downpipe to exhaust. Really finicky stuff, and putting wastegate & this lil pipe on was fairly easy. One bolt could go in straight up, we just had to force it so the others could fit.
After some convincing with a crowbar it decided it wanted to work and now all thats left is the intake piping (which luckily we know what to do).
I think the RS2 manifold changes the sound, or its an exhaust leak I didn't pick up. But something about it sounds different from before. Maybe its just the manifold and the larger exhaust side but it sounds pretty good all things considered. I also noticed at idle the turbo pushes some serious air...
Start Full Exhaust
Intakes getting looked at right now and tune should be soonish. Last I saw my tuner was helping a Time-Attack S15 in Sydney so I hope it won't be a while...
SilverCQ
New member
Luckily enough, intake piping wasn't extremely hard to source.
135° Silicone hose, Straight 2.5" pipe & finally a 2.5" > 2" reducer.
Just have to shorten the pipe so I can actually fit it on the turbo, it does bend to shape but I can't move it back to then slide it on. But still have to flare the pipe so it won't move around.
While looking around Motorsport accessories, I noticed they had the perfect mesh for the intake of my turbo.
Now I don't have to worry about sucking up any rocks, random things on the road, parts from engine bay, small birds, small dogs... Also it occurred to me to see what you could see from the front when bonnet it down. Cause you used to be able to see the old airbox and that was the only real piece that stood out.
Looking through the grille thats all you see. Very well hidden & I'd say very funny when you see it only through the full grille.
135° Silicone hose, Straight 2.5" pipe & finally a 2.5" > 2" reducer.
Just have to shorten the pipe so I can actually fit it on the turbo, it does bend to shape but I can't move it back to then slide it on. But still have to flare the pipe so it won't move around.
While looking around Motorsport accessories, I noticed they had the perfect mesh for the intake of my turbo.
Now I don't have to worry about sucking up any rocks, random things on the road, parts from engine bay, small birds, small dogs... Also it occurred to me to see what you could see from the front when bonnet it down. Cause you used to be able to see the old airbox and that was the only real piece that stood out.
Looking through the grille thats all you see. Very well hidden & I'd say very funny when you see it only through the full grille.
SilverCQ
New member
Alright. Tunes getting arranged at the moment but finally after so long, it has awoken and is angry.
Closeup of the intake system now. Bad quality on the right but thats a comparison to what its like now.
Suddenly the neighbor's crying baby, annoying dog & other neighbors (junkies) have gone quiet after letting this run for a while. Must be learning who/what REALLY is on top.
Monitoring temps and such. Fueling is kinda all over the place but thats cause of the old turbo. Bonnet closed, no airflow & no boost let the intake reach 40° which I think is pretty good. With airflow it'll be muuuuch better, although boost will offset that but either way it still looks promising.
The neighbors learned I think after me figuring out how the turbo sounds and yea....
Internal Sound
External Sound
It seems much more angry than it used to which is just what I wanted. On top of that, the exhaust change must've done something because it wants to rev now. The 6,600rpm limiter is too little for it now lol. Theres a slight rattle from the exhaust around the back. I think a pop has done something internally (or a hanger is just loose) and it rattles now (only at the back). It'll be truly hilarious if it blew the resonator with this new turbo.
Next update might take some time because of tune, but it'll start either "NG rods can take __psi boost" OR "NG rods can't take __psi boost"
Closeup of the intake system now. Bad quality on the right but thats a comparison to what its like now.
Suddenly the neighbor's crying baby, annoying dog & other neighbors (junkies) have gone quiet after letting this run for a while. Must be learning who/what REALLY is on top.
Monitoring temps and such. Fueling is kinda all over the place but thats cause of the old turbo. Bonnet closed, no airflow & no boost let the intake reach 40° which I think is pretty good. With airflow it'll be muuuuch better, although boost will offset that but either way it still looks promising.
The neighbors learned I think after me figuring out how the turbo sounds and yea....
Internal Sound
External Sound
It seems much more angry than it used to which is just what I wanted. On top of that, the exhaust change must've done something because it wants to rev now. The 6,600rpm limiter is too little for it now lol. Theres a slight rattle from the exhaust around the back. I think a pop has done something internally (or a hanger is just loose) and it rattles now (only at the back). It'll be truly hilarious if it blew the resonator with this new turbo.
Next update might take some time because of tune, but it'll start either "NG rods can take __psi boost" OR "NG rods can't take __psi boost"
SilverCQ
New member
NG rods can still take 20psi boost
Yesterday the water pump started a weep... Which was great but I noticed that it went away when the car was not running (and cold) BUT that it also wasn't leaking when it was at +80°C (running temp) so it was kinda figured out fairly quickly.
SO, to begin with some of the 'issues' that were sorted on the dyno. Old MAP sensor was bad, so we swapped it out with a 6BAR Honeywell the tuner had lying around. Then it began a miss at +6000rpm, swapped to BPR7ES spark plugs (gapped as well) and they didn't do anything which was making it more confusing... Until he realized that when it would miss, the battery voltage would drop from 14v to 11v. So he changed dwell timing for the R8 coils and suddenly we were punching above 6000 again.
Aside from those small things the car performed well. It has been finished to run 6,800rpm (until we then improve the voltage situation) with 20psi boost & 25° advance on 98 octane... Although it dropped from the frosty 35°C intake temps to ~47°C which is a downside but still impressive I'd say.
Gotta keep it consistent ^
Blue line was supposed to be the last time it was there but yea... Red is what its currently running. It went from 186kw @ the hubs to about 235kw @ hubs which is still a good increase (on the K26 it made ~40kw more than its previous tune & that changed the entire things 'personality') now its picked up about 50kw.
As dyno sheet shows it wants more revs, it'll have to wait for a lil bit for that to happen
Final Dyno Run
Main things it picked up was something which surprised me (as seen in video above) is the aggressive backfire (it reminds me slightly of the rally & street cars). That and the dyno's lambda being forced out of the exhaust lmao.
I did save a single frame from the video and its an improvement over last time. Driving it now is just incredible. Similar feeling pull as the old turbo but then you look at the speedo and your going way faster than it feels...
It has power all through the rev range its insane. Bonus on that is that it does flame/bang when at higher revs and shifting which is exactly what I wanted.
So... what to do with it next? Maybe I'll find the limit of the rods @ 7,500rpm instead of 6,800rpm
Yesterday the water pump started a weep... Which was great but I noticed that it went away when the car was not running (and cold) BUT that it also wasn't leaking when it was at +80°C (running temp) so it was kinda figured out fairly quickly.
SO, to begin with some of the 'issues' that were sorted on the dyno. Old MAP sensor was bad, so we swapped it out with a 6BAR Honeywell the tuner had lying around. Then it began a miss at +6000rpm, swapped to BPR7ES spark plugs (gapped as well) and they didn't do anything which was making it more confusing... Until he realized that when it would miss, the battery voltage would drop from 14v to 11v. So he changed dwell timing for the R8 coils and suddenly we were punching above 6000 again.
Aside from those small things the car performed well. It has been finished to run 6,800rpm (until we then improve the voltage situation) with 20psi boost & 25° advance on 98 octane... Although it dropped from the frosty 35°C intake temps to ~47°C which is a downside but still impressive I'd say.
Gotta keep it consistent ^
Blue line was supposed to be the last time it was there but yea... Red is what its currently running. It went from 186kw @ the hubs to about 235kw @ hubs which is still a good increase (on the K26 it made ~40kw more than its previous tune & that changed the entire things 'personality') now its picked up about 50kw.
As dyno sheet shows it wants more revs, it'll have to wait for a lil bit for that to happen
Final Dyno Run
Main things it picked up was something which surprised me (as seen in video above) is the aggressive backfire (it reminds me slightly of the rally & street cars). That and the dyno's lambda being forced out of the exhaust lmao.
I did save a single frame from the video and its an improvement over last time. Driving it now is just incredible. Similar feeling pull as the old turbo but then you look at the speedo and your going way faster than it feels...
It has power all through the rev range its insane. Bonus on that is that it does flame/bang when at higher revs and shifting which is exactly what I wanted.
So... what to do with it next? Maybe I'll find the limit of the rods @ 7,500rpm instead of 6,800rpm
